“To walk from Shyambazar to Shobhabazar through the narrow, winding lanes of North Kolkata is to traverse more than mere geography. It is a journey through the city’s soul – a living archive. Gentrification is altering the streetscape. Heritage buildings – old havelis and colonial mansions – are being restored, but not as homes. They are repurposed into boutique hotels, chic art cafés, and cultural hubs aimed at a new class. Traditional tea stalls and age-old bakeries now share space with trendy cafes; vibrant murals cover once-faded walls. While these changes bring a new vibrancy, they come at a cost,” said Mr Bhutoria.
“The balconies and verandahs were not just architecture; they were poignant symbols – the heart of the “rowak adda” culture – the vibrant, informal conversations that forged community bonds. The role of historic cultural practices is eroding as new buildings replace old houses, reducing the communal spaces for the informal interactions that once defined the neighbourhood’s spirit,” he lamented.
Manicktala Chaltabagan Lohapatty Durga Puja, universally known as the Chaltabagan Durga Puja, was started in 1943 in the Manicktala area of North Kolkata by a group of local young enthusiasts and businessmen. The area was historically known as “Lohapatty” (literally meaning “iron scrap neighbourhood”) due to the numerous scrap iron merchants and workshops located there.
The 1970s marked a dramatic turning point for Chaltabagan, transforming it from a local puja to a city-wide sensation. In 1976, for the first time under Probir Ganguly’s leadership, Chaltabagan pioneered the concept of the “theme puja” in its modern, spectacular form. That year, they created a pandal replicating the famous “Jagannath Temple of Puri” in Odisha. This was a revolutionary step and a trendsetter. The intricacy, scale, and authenticity of the replication were unheard of at the time. It drew massive crowds from all over Kolkata and set a new benchmark for Puja pandals. This move is often credited with starting the trend of extravagant, theme-based pandals that define Kolkata’s Puja today.
After the success of 1976, Chaltabagan became synonymous with innovation and grandeur. Year after year, the committee tried to outdo itself. They replicated famous temples from across India, such as the Dilwara Jain Temple (1981), Meenakshi Temple (1984), and Golden Temple (1985).
Later, they expanded their themes to include historical monuments and global wonders, like a Mughal Fort and even a massive, breathtaking Recreation of the Swiss Alps (1990), complete with artificial snow, which became the stuff of legend.
The committee began collaborating with renowned artists and artisans from across Bengal and India, further elevating the artistic quality of their idols and pandals. Chaltabagan Durga Puja can also be credited for starting curated events around Durga Puja, like the dhak utsav, khuti puja, sindoor khela and puja parikrama for the elders. All these trends have been widely embraced by various puja committees in the state and have become an intrinsic part of the puja festivities.
The Puja became a mandatory destination for Kolkatans and tourists during the festival. The long, snaking queues to get a glimpse of the Chaltabagan pandal became an integral part of the Puja experience.
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